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Bad stitching lines


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#1 Guest_tgreece_*

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Posted 31 July 2016 - 08:11 PM

I use all samsung's products. I was very satisfied until I bought the 360 gear camera.It is unacceptable for a leader called samsung to publish this product.

The picture quality is perfect but the stitching lines are very bad. This is the most important for a 360 degree picture and in this point this camera totaly fails.

I don't know if it is a matter of future update....



#2 360VideoAustralia

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    Posted 31 July 2016 - 09:12 PM

    I've found that the stitching on the gear 360 is actually very good - in most circumstances... and in fact better than all other 360 cameras I have used (including multi camera GoPro rigs which have many more lines to stitch).

     

    There are certainly stitching issues if you have a bright area at one lens and a dark area at the other... but this applies to all cameras of this type and can often be mitigated by turning the camera so the bright/dark areas are angled.


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    #3 Politon

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      Posted 03 August 2016 - 09:37 PM

      I am also very disappointed.  The stitching lines on the front lens right hand side do not line up and there is a color shift between the two lenses.I purchased mine through Amazon and contacted the company I purchased from and after sending  them some pictures to support my problems, they apparently forwarded my concerns and pics to samsung and had me ship it back where they are going to have it looked at.

      The company I purchased from returned all my emails and responded quickly so I hope this is a sign of how they will continue to conduct business. I won't mention their name as it may unfairly bias against them. 

      All I can do is wait. I will try and post back here more of my experience.

      Cheers

      Tony



      #4 Photosphere

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        Posted 20 August 2016 - 12:01 PM

        i am also very disappointed in this camera,  too much color difference between the lenses.  

         

        Politon you are lucky that you could send the camera back to samsung.  I am not getting any support from samsung

         

        A waste of money



        #5 markr041

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          Posted 20 August 2016 - 02:20 PM

          Again, you can minimize the issues with stiching lines/color differences by aiming the lens differently. You didn't think you can just arbitraility angle the camera, did you? Learn how to best use a 360 camera. New type of photography, new things to learn. By all means return the camera if you do not want to make any effort. 360 is not for you.

           

          I do agree that the two-color issue is more pronounced on the Samsung than on, say, the dual Kodak 360 4K's. So maybe Samsung can do something about this with a firmware update.



          #6 Politon

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            Posted 21 August 2016 - 03:19 AM

            I got my replacement camera and must say that the company I originally purchased from "Prime Gadget" through Amazon returned every email I sent them and and when it came to shipping, were super quick. So a big shout out to Prime Gadget. Thank you.

            My new camera is certainly far superior to the original and it is now more than clear that the first one was defective. I was starting to worry because I had started a log of different positions , rotations, angles and heights to mention a few and never achieved the Seamless and complete 360-degree field of view mentioned on the product home page.Call me old fashioned but when a product promises something I am a little crazy like that , that I expect it to deliver what it promises. the new one is certainly closer but still not seamless.

            It is true that by moving the stitch lines and or by rotating the camera you can in some cases minimize the seams and when the light is just right and the angle is just right you can sometimes even feel like there are no stitch lines or deviations. Like Mark041 mentions this is a new type of photography and we have new things to learn. Some of my earliest observations are that you can but shouldn't think you can just throw the camera out in front of you and expect it to be seamless. Like all photography , any one can pull off a great shot but the only way to consistently pull off many great shots is careful planning and execution. 

            you can achieve the illusion of seamless by thinking about where the seam is and positioning the camera as such. Yesterday I took the camera on a boat and tried the same shot with the camera in different positions and each had its advantages and disadvantages. I tried positioning the seam to be parallel to the horizon and hidden in the horizon line and that was great for the horizon but unfortunately not so favorable for the boat I was shooting from. I rotated the seam straight up and down and the horizon seemed pretty good and I even thought the boat looked good until I noticed that now the boat was apparently thinner. I was using the small tripod that comes with the camera and although it appeared invisible ( or should I say Didn't appear) my hand holding the tripod looked very distorted.  That gave me a great idea in that if the tripod was invisible, then maybe an extension for the tripod may also be invisible. I had an extendible wand for cleaning the boat ( the type that has a brush at the end that you connect to your hose so you can run water through) I unscrewed the brush and had some fittings and added a Quarter 20 thread to it . Disconnected the hose of course . replaced the little tripod that comes with the camera with my new extendable selfie stick and amazing but true , no pole and my hands actually looked normal. I started experimenting with holding my hands differently so it could look like I was just standing there not holding anything and it actually looked good. I can't tell you exactly but I think the maximum I extended the pole was about 4 feet and I never see it. The only real give away is that you can see the shadow of the pole and camera. Again at the right time of day or a little cloud cover to soften the shadows you may never see the shadow. We are pioneering some new and exciting stuff here and with access to great user forums and each other, with our successes and failures we can all learn together.  Lets share both what works and what doesn't. Lets be patient with the people who can't get it and feel like throwing in the towel. Instead of telling them to go away , lets show them that there are different ways. I almost gave up and would have missed out on this amazing future. It turned out I had a defective product , I was afraid to ask for fear of being accused of ignorance or showing my lack of knowledge. 

            I hope i have helped some one but mostly I am grateful to all those who have been patient and helped me.

            Cheers

            Tony



            #7 Guest_markr041_*

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            Posted 21 August 2016 - 03:38 AM

            Good post.

            #8 Toecutter

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              Posted 25 August 2016 - 11:46 AM

              Ive been making videos with it since June. I found the stitching struggles when an object is quite close and extends away from the lens the stitch seems to struggle. You can see what i mean in my video (below) my left arm is stitched fine at the wrist but the image is mis-aligned by the time its at my shoulder. 

               

               I think the exposure problem with strong light sources being visible at the stitch line could be solved by slaving one lens's/camera's exposure settings to the other forcing over or underexposure to the same level as the master lens. if you know what i mean lol. 

               

              I'm also using Action Dir on my PC to stitch as i don't own an S7 to get the higher bit rate post stitch file, so may upgrade my trusty Note 2 to an S7 soon.

               

              Now that i know this and as has been said that this is a new way of filming a bit of experimentation is needed to get the best setups. Got a few other 360° vids on my YT channel. 

               



              #9 Politon

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                Posted 26 August 2016 - 09:54 PM

                Thank you Toecutter for sharing your video. I also do not have an S7 so am only able to use and test with my S6 , my PC and this week I installed windows 10 on my mac book.

                So far can not see any differences in Action Director whether on the PC or the Mac Book. So am very happy about that. I understand that the using the S7 is the only way to get Maximum Resolution I read a couple of posts that talked about the h264 and h265 but can't find them again to quote. But I must say that I really didn't understand perfectly why the S7 does a better job with the resolution than dragging the Raw files from the SD card to the computer. I will most likely re-read them ( when I find them) a dozen more times before it really sinks in. 

                Meanwhile , I am more concerned with trying to master shooting first then maximizing my resolution questions.

                 I have found with that using a longer pole as apposed to the little tripod that comes with the camera certainly helps keeping things like ourselves from being too close. Another thing I have discovered is that in some cases by rotating the camera to put the stitch line 90 degrees from where I started seems to make a difference.

                When you look at the Samsung information the front Lens is the Lens that faces away from you as you hold the camera with the Battery Door to your left. If you are holding the camera by its small tripod the Record button would be closest to you The LCD screen would be further from you. Funny but when I picked the camera up for the first time I was backward. I felt like that the LCD screen should be closest to me. Oh well. 

                I started doing tests where I would change the direction the camera was facing .

                The only way I could keep track of my tests was to think of my shooting directions as a clock. I would primarily call straight ahead 12o'clock with closest to me being 6 O'Clock , My left 9 O'Clock and my Right 3 O'clock 

                For example , Toecutter's Video would seem to be Front lens at 12 and Rear at 6.

                Toecutter, you may have already done this but could you do a similar video where you do a portion of your ride with the lenses at 12 & 6 , then another Portion rotating the front and rear lens to 9 & 3.

                This for me has given me the best understandings of how and where to set the seem to minimize deviations in the two lenses.

                Please don't think I am trying to be some sort of expert know it all , I am just another user trying to learn how to get the best out of this new Tech.

                I was out this week on a boat and tried these and had the best results to date but , I don't know how and call me silly but I didn't back up and my hard drive crashed and I lost my tests, other wise I would be sharing them with you all and not blabbing on like I am. 

                I hope to get out this week and try some more tests but the Boat won't be an option sadly. I think the boat or motorcycle, with their open layout and good speed with potentially good clearance are good test subjects.

                I also wish there was/is a way to force to two lenses to the same exposure or color shift to help reduce some of the deviations in the stitching. 

                Thanks every and here is hoping that we can keep helping each other and tackle this beast

                Cheers

                Tony






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